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Do you have 12 volts at positive side of coil? If not, work that problem using the wiring diagram. Also, if no 12 volts at coil you can run a temporary jumper wire from battery positive to positive side of coil and car should start and run. Key word is temporary.

I can only relate my experience with 69 RR with non ralleye cluster. Yes, a bit of a pain to pull the cluster because you have to pull the switch panel and lower dash pad. Probably helps if you lower the steering column a bit also. I found it easier because I could see everything right side...

I would leave the seat and pull the glove box and cluster. Lots easier to see things from the top as you hook up the wires.

The wires have continuity which is good, but the dimmer needs more than cleaned. They are notorious causing problems after 50 so years. Take a look at this guys listing on Ebay. He's a good guy from another b body site. He redid my dimmer switch and all is good. Do not buy a new...

See Post #4. Dashlight issue is most likely dimmer switch as you have discovered. You are chasing your tail pulling the cluster in and out. Not all wires on the 9 pin connector are power wires. Most are signal wires, so they are looking for a ground via the oil sender, fuel sender, temp...

Likely an issue with dimmer switch. Ceramic gets old and brittle. Let us know what you find.

Feeds instrument panel lights. Turn headlights on and recheck.

I would double check bolts holding steering box to K Member, they may be loose which could cause toe to change. Retorque the strut rods on both ends. If you replaced upper control arm bushings, they may be too loose and spinning in control arm, I have heard of this issue recently. Are...

Define out of alignment. You test drive it, put it back on the rack and it's out of spec? Or, you get it aligned and it pulls one way or another stll.

Just do it right and get a complete dash harrness. You can replace those female connectors but the wires are probably toast a few inches back also. Just easier to start over. Then look for the cause. Still running an Ammeter? I am on mine and I like it but you need to take a few extra...

Yes, disconnect black wire from sending until, do not remove sending unit. Attach one lead of your Ohmmeter on to the black wire at the sending unit, attach the other ohmmeter lead to other end of the same wire where you disconnected at the kick panel. Ohmmeter should read 0 resistance or...

Disconnect wire from sending unit and kick panel. Put ohmmeter leads on both ends of wire, read resistance. If OPEN or OL, wire is broken somewhere along its path.

No, do not splice and ground the black wire. It is the "sensing" wire, its resistance to ground via the tank sending unit is what the gauge reads. If you ground it permanently the gauge will read full for awhile until it burns up. You can add a ground wire to the grounding strap to ensure you...

In a previous post you mentioned you cleaned and grounded the "black" wire at the sending unit connection and nothing happened with the gauge. Did you misspeak and mean Dark Blue or did you ground a black wire? If black is all you have there coming out the harness, someone spliced a black wire...

Does fuel gauge work? Back up to next connector. Undo at bulkhead and ground sensor wire.

By grounding wire you took sending unit out of the circuit, so sending unit is not the problem. If your original temp gauge works it's not the voltage limiter. Unplug harness at kick panel as suggested, ground sending unit wire, no gauge movement move to the next connector.

No wires under those nut. Printed circuit transmits power to voltage limiter then gauge, other side is ground that goes thru printed circuit, out the round connector and to tank. What are symptoms with gas gauge? Does temp gauge work? Both get power from voltage limiter

Which harness are you replacing? The interior harness generally comes with the bulkhead connector attached. If you can twist the bulkhead thru the firewall you wont have much wiring slack to work on it.

Remove connections at bulkhead and have a look at them for heat damage. The middle connector brings all power into the drivers compartment. High resistance there will cause those wires to heat up also.

You will have a very frustrating experience with such a small compressor. Blast time will be short, recharge time long. You really need a larger compressor. The more CFM the better. Skat Blast makes great equipment.