Recent content by torredcuda

Maybe check with Hamtramk Historical, Galen Govier or some registry as they may have info on your vin number or dealership records.

Yes- which ones, side, front, rear, upper, lower etc.?

Not sure about Sherman but I used AMD and very happy with it, they are probably cheaper for a reason.

I use it on any joints and over welded areas to seal up any possible pinholes and also use it as a base layer for areas like roof/quarter seams then finish with regular filler.

https://www.youtube.com/@LostandFoundMuscleCars

https://www.facebook.com/lostmusclecars/

https://www.tptools.com/USC-All-Metal-Body-Filler,1623.html?srsltid=AfmBOor_bSWj_zBREX8cDRSMzEcWrGTnzdpFTbI6uSD91pjpabHsPVuk

Engine bay extra holes and some damaged areas all welded up, ground and skimmed with All Metal.

I wouldn`t think tariffs would even affect anything yet as I`m sure most items are in stock and arrived here months ago??

https://www.stockmopar.com/mopar-vin-decoding.html

The pic with the trunk rail number is the only one that pertains to the vin number but there should also be one on the radiator support on the drivers side either top rail or back side of it. Unfortunately they do not give you the full vin number - E9 16xxxx decodes to - E = LA plant...

https://www.autocolorlibrary.com/pages/1968-Plymouth.html#parentHorizontalTab3

So you don`t have the dash vin plate? Other locations for the full vin number are drivers door sticker, fender tag located on the drivers inner fender under the hood or the broadcast sheet which is usually found under the rear seat. There are two partial vin numbers stamped into the radiator...

Looks like some nice suspension upgrades, from the old school Centerlines I wouldn`t have guessed?