Rain Rain, Go Away

[Ranger]

Well I went on the Hot Rod Power Tour last Sat. & Sun. Sunday night thunderstorms rolled in. Hotel parking lots where packed with classics (incl my Road Runner). The rain came down in torrents (sideways). Then the hail started and there where many, many puckered sphincters. Fortunately, the hail was only pea sized and no one sustained any damage. I, on the other hand found my front carpets, glove box and trunk soaked. All the paper work in the glove box had to be dried out. We drove through a heavy shower on Sunday and I noticed a few drips on my brake pedal. Didn't think too much of it as I though it was forced in by the wind at 60 MPH. BOY WAS I WRONG! I'm suspecting the windshield seal.

It's out in the driveway now with the windows, doors and trunk open to dry out. Probably going to have to pull the carpets. Was thinking of replacing the fronts anyway, may have to now. Anyone know of a good place to get them? I checked http://www.classicindustries.com/, but they don't seem to have any in Navy Blue.

Not sure where the trunk water got in from, but now I know why it was so rusty. It had standing water.

 

[mcmopar]

Try Legendary. Legendaryautointeriors.com

 

[quikbird]

Another prime leak spot is the wiper pivot seals. Roadrunners are notorious for leaking there.

 

[A12]

Get the garden hose and check the rear window seal usually at the bottom outside corners of the rear window, at the "Dutchman" panel seam or part way down the "C" or roof pillar is where it leaks to the trunk.

I also agree with quikbird on the wiper pivot seals as a good place to check for the leak up front.

 

[Ranger]

I suspect the window seal both front and back.
The base of the windshield (inside) has water stains and they look old. I am considering having the windshield trim removed (never done it so I'm afraid to damage them) and then silicone caulk the hell out of the seal. Same for the rear.
I can add some clear silicone to the wiper pivots as well just in case.

Whatever it is, it must be bad for the amount of water I had in the car.

Thanks for the ideas. Always appreciated.

 

[Basketcase]

the wiper pivot seals are cheap and fairly easy to replace. If you'r going to pull the moldings off, might as well do it right and make sure if the windshield gasket is leaking, and if so, replace it. I'll bet (from experience) that the pivot seals are the main cause. when I got my first B Body, if was if someone had a garden hose under the dash the first time I got caught in the rain. and another thing that makes slopping sealer on the windshield gasket a bad idea...if you replace the moldings, you'll have a heck of a time getting them back off without damaging them. I've destroyed several sets of moldings from some PO doing this.

 

[Ranger]

I have looked at the wiper seals and they "look" OK. I guess I'll have to waterboard them and see if they leak. If so, how do you seal them? silicone?
Sounds like a trip to a glass shop for the front windshield.
What about the back? Is that the seal or can I silicone that one?

 

[Basketcase]

step away from the silicone! you need this for the wiper pivots. the black round seals are what dry up and leak.
https://www.yearone.com/Product/chrysler-b-body/wp303
Classic Industries also has the kit, and a free catalog.
http://www.classicindustries.com/product/mopar/parts/mb184606.html


as for the trunk, I'll bet the trunk seal is leaking. that's why so many of these cars have rusted out trunk floors.

 

[Ranger]

I stopped by a local classic car restoration shop today (never new they where there.) The owner was a very nice guy and asked if I could bring the car back. I did. After going over it, he showed me several places where I needed do some clear silicone caulking (along the gutter trim), but most of all he said it was the roof rail & door seals after water checking it. So I ordered a complete set of seals from Classic Industries for about $260.

As for the trunk, we are 99.9% sure it is the rear window. The trunk seal looks new. So I bought a tube of 3M window sealant and I'm going to pop off the trim and reseal it. Then I'll pull the package try and re-spray it with the interior paint I ordered a few months ago.

Once I'm sure the leaks are sealed I'll re-carpet it.

 

[Basketcase]

let us know how you make out.

 

[Ranger]

Wilco

 

[Ranger]

Pulled the rear window trim today. WOW! No wonder the trunk was wet. The sealer was either a shitty factory job or badly deteriorated (or both). Either way, it is now tighter than a frogs ass. One down and one (doors) to go.
That sealant is much like Chassis Saver or POR15, get it on your hands it has to wear off.

 

[A12]

Pulled the rear window trim today. WOW! No wonder the trunk was wet. The sealer was either a shitty factory job or badly deteriorated (or both). Either way, it is now tighter than a frogs ass. One down and one (doors) to go.
That sealant is much like Chassis Saver or POR15, get it on your hands it has to wear off.

I'm going with "badly deteriorated"..................DAMHIK.......:wink-new:

 

[Ranger]

Well, the window and door seals showed up today, but after a closer inspection, I'm second guessing myself and thin I may have jumped the gun. The ones on the car don't look bad. I'm considering returning them and popping the windshield trim and resealing that like I did the rear window. I have a bad feeling about that seal.

I could put the money towards the new carpets. They ARE getting replaced.

 

[Ranger]

Well Murphy continues to hang around my garage and "help".

I pulled the windshield trim today and it was as bad or worse than the rear. No wonder the carpets where so wet. Water must have been pouring in.
All my problems would have been solved (except for replacing the carpets) had I not cracked the windshield removing the last piece of trim. :blue: I didn't know whether to cry or punch myself in the face.

Carpet samples are on the way to be sure I get the correct color.

 

[Basketcase]

really sucks about the glass. but, as long as your this far, replace the wiper pivots, they're 46 years old.

 

[Ranger]

How do you even get those things out? :huh:

 

[69hemibeep]

In the center of the gasket is a locking rib that folds out. Get something in there to pry it out all the way around then do the same with the glass. No fun and there should be non hardening sealer along the bottom edge of the frame under the gasket up about 2-3 inches on each side, they typically leak there. I call them chop sticks but there are tools for this.

 

[69hemibeep]

This is from my old restoration thread....So you want to install your own windshield. I suggest you find someone thats done one before, todays glass guys have no clue. My friend that makes me feel young showed me how and it takes two people. You first push the gasket over the pinch weld all around the top and sides, now set the bottom of the gasket on the dash out of the way. Get your hard to find non hardening, non setting sealer and run a 3/8" bead just below the dash and about 2" up the sides. Now set the bottom of the gasket in and hook the three tabs into the groove of the gasket. Now set the bottom of the glass into the gasket centered and as deep as you can. My friend had a couple of plastic sticks that we used to work the lip of the gasket over the glass starting at the bottom and work your way up, then the top to the corner,the corner is the hardest. These sticks came from a glass shop back when most windows were in rubber gaskets. You will find it helps to slap and pound the glass as you go to help seat it and it take some time to get that lip over the glass, if you get it on the edge of the glass most of the way around it will come over the rest of the way as you pound and work the gasket. Now this part is almost as hard, you need to tuck the locking groove together to give a rounded finish, the sticks will be used again. I pulled a little of the lock apart so you could see it.

 

[69hemibeep]

http://www.amazon.com/CRL-Tapered-Windshield-Stick-Setting/dp/B001M52YRO