Numbers Matching Car

[69383RR]

a lot of talk about number matching cars on the other thread , some guys don't give a damn while others might prefer a # matching car . When I bought my car it was advertised as a # matching car which I suppose was nice, but certainty not at the top of my list for buying it . The thing is I have no idea if it really is a # matching car . What constitutes that designation and how do you tell . I'm just curious .

 

[Basketcase]

starting in '69 IIRC, the vin number will be stamped on your engine and trans.

 

[4spd69RR]

Like Dave has mentioned P/N stamp on the engine and Trans matching, however, it also means a cars with original major components, Brakes, Battery, Alternator, Carb, etc. Company's like Yearone and Classic Industries are now reproducing NOS parts that look like EOM with date code and original part numbers stamped or applied.

 

[69383RR]

So if the transmission and motor both have the same # as the vin # you can say you have a # matching car , or do all the other parts have to be there as well ? Because if that's the case you can exclude my car .

 

[4spd69RR]

I would consider it a numbers matching car, my reasoning is this, a lot of the other parts and components are throw away items. Also consider your car is 40+ years old and if the numbers on the trans matches the engine numbers then I think you are good to go. Do you have the original build sheet to compare the numbers? If you did that would be another way to verify.

 

[69383RR]

I have the paper that was under the seat but I'm not sure what I'll be looking for ?

 

[4spd69RR]

You may need to find you engine and trans codes. Next to each code should be the engine and trans numbers.

 

[pinkpanthr]

I call my car numbers matching because I have the original engine and transmission. The trans however was rebuilt with a different gear set by Passon. I have Disc brakes on the front. I'm running electronic ignition. And the carb is an Edelbrock instead of the original Carter. I had been keeping all the original parts off the car when I swapped something out in case I ever resold it and someone wanted to do a concourse resto on it. Now if I find someone who needs a part I had been letting collect dust in my garage I'm more than happy to pass it down the line. Matching numbers only really matters on a show car, but I'm proud for my car to still be powered by the engine it left the showroom with. If I want to go faster. I'll just have to buy another bird!:groucho:

 

[69hemibeep]

Your VIN should match the partial VIN on the radiator support and left trunk lip under the weather strip for body #s. And if your Engine and trans have the full VIN and the Diff is date correct you have a #s match drive train. Then if you want to go crazy every thing on the car has date codes.

 

[69hemibeep]

Oh Bill and Ray I used the pre restored greasy pick cause its easier to see. :bart:

 

[69383RR]

Nice ! I will check out these numbers tomorrow , Thanks again .

 

[ACME A12]

Oh Bill and Ray I used the pre restored greasy pick cause its easier to see. :bart:

Bill, I'm pretty sure he just slid under that dirty girl and snapped a pic yesterday...whatta you think...? :lmao:


BTW - you have a bolt stuck stuck in the side of your block. You might want to get that looked at...:basketcase:

 

[A31PKG]

a lot of talk about number matching cars on the other thread , some guys don't give a damn while others might prefer a # matching car . When I bought my car it was advertised as a # matching car which I suppose was nice, but certainty not at the top of my list for buying it . The thing is I have no idea if it really is a # matching car . What constitutes that designation and how do you tell . I'm just curious .

You ask 10 guys and you'll likely get 10 different positions on the subject...Generally speaking, the "born-with" drivetrain in the original body constitutes "numbers matching". Date codes & original parts are just icing on the cake. If you have 2 identical cars (same condition, options, etc)and one has the original drivetrain and the other doesn't, then the numbers car should command a higher selling price. How much higher is up for debate...whatever the market will bear, and whatever the buyer is willing to spend. There's not a thing wrong with a non-numbers car UNLESS it is being advertised for sale as a numbers car.... Oh I've said too much....

 

[ACME A12]

You ask 10 guys and you'll likely get 10 different positions on the subject...Generally speaking, the "born-with" drivetrain in the original body constitutes "numbers matching". Date codes & original parts are just icing on the cake. If you have 2 identical cars (same condition, options, etc)and one has the original drivetrain and the other doesn't, then the numbers car should command a higher selling price. How much higher is up for debate...whatever the market will bear, and whatever the buyer is willing to spend. There's not a thing wrong with a non-numbers car UNLESS it is being advertised for sale as a numbers car.... Oh I've said too much....

:yeathat:

 

[69hemibeep]

:yeathat:

:yeathat:

 

[4spd69RR]

Your VIN should match the partial VIN on the radiator support and left trunk lip under the weather strip for body #s. And if your Engine and trans have the full VIN and the Diff is date correct you have a #s match drive train. Then if you want to go crazy every thing on the car has date codes.

I forgot to mention those vin# locations. I do have story about a guy who tried to sell me a convet challenger several years ago. I had answered an add that was posted in the local paper. Convert Challenger numbers matching for sale. I had to see the car, I stopped by the guys house and started looking the car over. It was in his drive way, the body looked fairly good, looking closer at the vin # location I read three different vin numbers. The guy finally said he had put two challenger together and SE and R/T. He was trying to sell the cars as and 383 R/T Convert. So I figure the front half was the R/T and the back half was the SE. Even thou the fender tag suggested 383 R/T Convert. That is why you should carry a decode list with you when looking at these cars, unless you don't mind a over paying for clone.

 

[ACME A12]

I forgot to mention those vin# locations. I do have story about a guy who tried to sell me a convet challenger several years ago. I had answered an add that was posted in the local paper. Convert Challenger numbers matching for sale. I had to see the car, I stopped by the guys house and started looking the car over. It was in his drive way, the body looked fairly good, looking closer at the vin # location I read three different vin numbers. The guy finally said he had put two challenger together and SE and R/T. He was trying to sell the cars as and 383 R/T Convert. So I figure the front half was the R/T and the back half was the SE. Even thou the fender tag suggested 383 R/T Convert. That is why you should carry a decode list with you when looking at these cars, unless you don't mind a over paying for clone.

Not related to the numbers issue, but I have had a B-Body hardtop that was two pieced together and there were no structural problems...I'm a little more skeptical about a 'vert E-Body though...:leave: