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It never ends

Roadcuda

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Well, now the Runner has decided that it doesn't want to charge the battery. I pulled the 3 month old alt. and had it tested and it proved to good, putting normal numbers, I switched the voltage reg. with a know good one and there was no difference. So now I'm guessing it must be somewhere in the wiring? I have the diagrams but I since I hate electrical work I'm not really sure on how to go about testing the wires or what to look for as far as readings go. Any suggestions would be helpful. Thanks.
 

Big John

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Could be the battery
 

george68hemirr

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could it be a fried amp meter

if you pull off a bettery terminal does the engine still run??....if so the alt is good unless the battery is bad......to test the battery without a cell tester pull of all the battery caps.....pull the coil wire and crank it over......you need 2 people to do this......while someone is cranking look at the battery cells......if one or two cells are bubbling you have a bad battery :yesnod:
 

Roadcuda

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SomeCarGuy said:
Do you have an Optima?
No, I have a Die Hard that's about 5 years old. BTW, it's been turning the car over with no problems. I tried the battery I had in my '65 'Cuda which still had a good charge. It didn't make a difference, still no charge. I had already tried the pull a cable trick and it does shut the engine off. But I had taken the alternator and had it tested which showed it's find, no problems with it. I traced all the wires best I could to check for continuity with a meter. I didn't find any problems there. I pulled the bulk head connectors, checked the in and out lines from the amp meter and got a reading there, so I assume that's ok. While apart I sprayed with an electrical cleaner, then applied dialectic grease and reassembled them. I even swapped the good voltage reg form the '65 to the car, that also didn't make a difference!
One thing I haven't figured out. I charged the battery overnight with just the neg cable removed. After removing the charger today and while pulling wires off the ballast resistor to check the wires, I noticed it was very warm. So I pulled it off, checked it with the meter, it was still good. I tried another BR I had for the hell of it, still no charge, but after I shut it off I saw smoke coming for the BR, and it was also very warm. I pulled that one off and saw that the coil on the back of it had a burnt look to it, but it still tested good on the meter. I put the original BR back on, and after doing the other work I mentioned I tried it again, and of course still no charge, but the BR stayed cool.
Don't know if this is a factor, I had a volt meter installed recently. It was working fine when I first got the car back from that, and other work. I may have to have the guy look at it when I take it down to him for a front end alignment in a few weeks! Is there a simple way to check the voltage reg to see it it's working properly. FWIW, I know it's electronic.
 

Big John

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Check the voltage at the battery with the car running. It should be 13.7 volts or better. If not, ground the field terminal on the alternator temporally. You'll have to make up a jumper wire with a spade connector on one end and maybe an alligator clip on the other. It should show full charge on the ammeter if the alternator is OK. Slight charge could be a bad diode(s) in the alternator. If that works OK, it's probably the regulator.

I would also check battery terminals and their connections to the engine. They need to be clean and tight.
 

Roadcuda

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Big John said:
Check the voltage at the battery with the car running. It should be 13.7 volts or better. If not, ground the field terminal on the alternator temporally. You'll have to make up a jumper wire with a spade connector on one end and maybe an alligator clip on the other. It should show full charge on the ammeter if the alternator is OK. Slight charge could be a bad diode(s) in the alternator. If that works OK, it's probably the regulator.

I would also check battery terminals and their connections to the engine. They need to be clean and tight.
All the battery connections are clean and tight! For some stupid reason I still confuse which is the field connection on the Alt. Is that the connection where the wires bolt to the stud? I don't want to cause any more problems by hooking up the wrong wire! Thanks to everyone who've offered suggestions.
 

Big John

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Roadcuda said:
Big John said:
Check the voltage at the battery with the car running. It should be 13.7 volts or better. If not, ground the field terminal on the alternator temporally. You'll have to make up a jumper wire with a spade connector on one end and maybe an alligator clip on the other. It should show full charge on the ammeter if the alternator is OK. Slight charge could be a bad diode(s) in the alternator. If that works OK, it's probably the regulator.

I would also check battery terminals and their connections to the engine. They need to be clean and tight.
All the battery connections are clean and tight! For some stupid reason I still confuse which is the field connection on the Alt. Is that the connection where the wires bolt to the stud? I don't want to cause any more problems by hooking up the wrong wire! Thanks to everyone who've offered suggestions.

It's the single wire that slides on rather then to the stud.
 

Jim S.

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Hello Steve, well since you pretty much swapped everything out, it could very well be in the wiring. Maybe the sense line in the bulkhead? That wire is basically the input to the regulator. I don't know if you have a dual or single field alternator or a dual with one field grounded because that would make a difference on how you go about the full field test. You said you had the alt. checked out anyway. Here is a link that may help you troubleshoot. Its pretty easy to understand. Good luck :thumbsup:

http://www.highimpactperformance.org/fi ... 001_1_.pdf
 
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