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Almost time to assemble the 440...

chapdog105

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I should be able to start putting some good money back into the completion of my 69 convertible soon.
It still isn't home, but I'm expecting a call anytime to come pick her up.

This whole car restoration has been quite the experience over these past couple years. I've learned so much about these 69 Roadrunners, but I know little about the motor. All of my interest has been so focused on other parts of the car, I haven't put the time in to learn about engines the way I have with other aspects of the car.

As deep as I am financially into the car, I still have about $12k-$15k in parts and services according to my list. I really can't afford to have the motor built and put on a dyno like I originally wanted. My brother and dad want to build it at home.

So now it's time for a crash course...and that's where you all come in! :lmao:

Everyone knows the story...my dad ditched the original 383 out of my car in 1981. I have a 69 dated 440 for it now. My dad said it came out of an old New Yorker C-body that belonged to a family friend.

I would like to get about 450-475 hp out of it. I'm not looking for a race car. My engine goals can be summed up with 3 words... "reliable with balls".

I have a 727 trans that has been rebuilt. The car currently has a 3.23 gear, but I may change that down the road.

I have a set of cast 906 heads for it. I'd like to keep them. From what I have read, my goals should be attainable with the cast 906 heads.

I love Air Grabber set-ups, and plan on having one on the car. That will impact the carburetor I go with, correct?

I have a stock intake manifold (see picture). Should I upgrade? Will this work with a 440 air-cleaner and base for the Air Grabber set-up?

So with what I have, I need a shopping list. What should I go with to keep a close-to-stock look, without compromising reliability and performance?

Anyone have specific companies and sizes for:
Cam and lifters? Carburetor? Intake manifold? Oil pan? Gasket kit? Headers? Starter? Exhaust system?

The cylinders were bored .030 at a local machine shop. I used a good set of used .030 over pistons with new rods and bearings. Stock crank was also balanced.

Here are some pics of where I'm at now...

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droptop

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I would go with a factory six barrel cam, mild porting on the heads, with a stock intake. You will be amazed at the amount of torque the 440 has over the 383. You will need a440 base for the air grabber, and 3.23 gears is just right for the torque of the 440. I would also mill the heads about 30 thou unless you go with the metal shim head gaskets.
 

moparchris

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You have a few hurdles to get through already. First off the piston choice will saddle you with low compression, like 8 to 1 at best. secondly the pistons dont have valve reliefs which will limit you to pretty much a stock cam. A high compression 440 will make 450 pretty easy. So knowing that I would really consider buying a set of KB hyperuetectic pistons and have the rotating assembly rebalanced. Then I would carefully consider your camshaft, lets get back to that later. I personally would run the stock intake but modify it for an 850 Holley carb then run the stock Air Grabber base plate since that is one of your goals. For exhaust I would spend really good money here since it will yield you very big rewards for your money. TTI step headers with a 2.5 mandrel bent exhaust with a really good muffler like the magna flow or flowmaster. Ok so the cam will be the key to making big power and having driveability. I would look for something with a wide lobe seperation like 112 to 114, the lobe seperation angle will smooth out your idle so you get good vacuum for power brakes and stable idle for an automatic car. It will also widen the pwer band and make the car more fun to drive and will help out with your highway gear. Second thing to consider is lift. The stock 906 head will have peak flow between .400 and ,450 lift depending on the valves and valve job. This doesn't mean that you will buy a cam with .450 lift. You will have to consider valvetrain deflection as part of that equation as well. I have found in my experience that cams in the low .500s make the most power with the stock head on a 440. So shoot for .500 to .525 with more lift on the exhaust. Third to consider is duration at .050 lift. The reason for .050 lift is the manufacturers constant that is used for camshaft selection, so you can compare apples to apples. The duration that 906s love is in the 240 degree range but that is a pretty radical duration so somewhere in the 235 range will be best for your application. Here are some cams for you to consider.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-7 ... make/dodge
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/lun-1 ... make/dodge <<<<<This one is the one I would go with.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hrs-c ... make/dodge

I would also consider installing it advanced. Most cams are ground with 4 degrees advance already in them but I would go 4 more to boost low end since the cam will be on the big side and advancing it will make your motor think its smaller. BTW I am thinking of buying the Howards cam for my A12 Bees 440.
 

sixgunrunner68

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My engine combination is close to what Chris has described. The only thing I might add to what he's said is to consider decking the block if it hasn't been already. I'm running the KB eutectics, and they're only .010" deep in the hole. This will bring your compression right up. Just a thought. :cents:
 

Basketcase

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my Charger had a 440 4 speed with 3.23s. nice all around ratio. decent llilage, could still lite the tires. Freebird had the same 440 4 spped from the Charger, but I put 3.55s in. More pep, b ut still pretty good milage, I parked my Power Wagon when gas first hit $4, and drove the runner to work, 40 miles round trip,got 5 days out of a tank.
 
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