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when i installed the six pack cam i bought a set of these. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/dcc-4006767ab/overview/

i am assuming oil pressure is good (no gauge). they were adjusted to zero lash and then 3/4 turn. i have done a little looking around and it seems there is enough feed back that lifters are not as good as they once were and ones that won't stay pumped up may be the likely answer. have a few...

no i drive it at least 2 times a week. oil is always changed every year (not enough miles) and i add additives. problems seemed to surface at the end of last summer. was in 3rd gear going on expressway and starting to hear sounds i did not like under load. the tune did not change so i looked...

looking into some tuning issues with engine. i would like to hear what you would say are the effects of lifters not pumping up properly. besides the ticking, would there be maybe some popping, or pinging under load? things like that.

http://supercarraces.com/Porterracing.html

give a call to dwayne porter.

they are the same but i think they use something different than the nut to hold in on by the studs. are there holes for them or are they stuck on?

for me it is wash with actual soap made for washing cars, a wool mit, and silicone squegee. if i feel energetic, i will then use a clay bar and detail spray. when that is done i use turtle wax ice because it will not dry cloudy on black surfaces.

grab a cheap multi meter and check if the door switches are opening and closing the circuit.

may have to check all the ground connections for a clean connection. fresh paint may not let grounds work.

check for power right at the dome light with the door open. maybe not getting a good ground through door switches. is there fresh paint?

not that far away. if it is just the lights in the gauges and not anything else like the ashtray light or the light in the radio, it may be a bad pin on the circuit board. if they are all effected, first obviously check fuse and then test the dimmer in switch panel. if the dome light does not...

do you mean the map light or the lights for the gauges?

that ground not being there is the common thing to all of the items you say are not working in the original gauge cluster. what is frustrating me is that with all this advice we are giving is that it seems you are not doing your part of actually testing the circuits in your car. there is no...

it sounds as if there is no ground for the circuit board on the back of gauges. all those lights and voltage limiter share that ground. you will have to get a multi-meter in there to confirm ground and power. ground is made by the screws holding the circuit board across the top.

the original gauge only needs 5 volts to work properly.

when ever these cars need a front alignment, the first thing that needs to be adjusted is ride height. then after that the caster, camber, toe. so a small adjustment should be ok, but within reason because the other dimensions could change a little.

i think your next move is to get out a multi meter and trace the wires involved to make sure they are going where they are supposed to go. how are you getting the wire from the sending unit to the new gauge?

looking at the diagram from the link i provided it goes negative to chassis ground, positive to the fuse, and the "s" terminal to the sending unit. it sounds like you are mixing up the positive connection and the sending unit connection the way you worded it.