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I am familiar with the MAD site. I am not wanting to bypass the bulkhead connections. I just want to run a wire from the alternator output stud to the batt stud on the starter relay. This is described at the end of the Hot Wire paragraph in the link below. I have also seen it in several...

I want to change my alternator output lead to the battery stud on the starter relay as described in several articles. I will be using 10 ga wire with a 14 ga fusible link. My question is this, do you just leave the wire that is connected to now disconnected or are you adding a second terminal...

Re: F&B 6BBL XFI2.0 572Hemi(movie 1e start-up) Congrats That is always a great feeling, then first time they start. :banana:

Good point. I missed the MSD part when I read the first time. MSD recommends a gap as wide as 0.050 -0.060" I believe. I think I set mine at 0.050" and it works fine.

Cool! You sure have done a lot of work on her. Kudos.

I think you want the colder plug with that much compression. It has longer insulator and will help suppress detonation. I would set them at 0.035" just like most plugs.

Cragars are also very nice and I like them too. What bothered me about them was the slotted holes for the lugs to fit multiple hubs. I just don't think that is a good idea and seems like a possible problem area. I went to their web site and I guess you can get them non-slotted now so that...

I like the Weld wheels a lot but they are only available in a 15" size.

I know this comes up every so often. I am thinking about replacing my wheels (which I've never liked) with a set of new Centerlines. I have narrowed it down to three wheels; Retro, Eliminator and Qualifier. Here is a pic of the qualifier http://centerlinewheels.com/view_wheel_ ... p?id=13148...

Too bad the car is not green. Are there different tires on the front than on the back? The tread pattern looked different in the photos.

:jester: Ah, you guys forget that we have a squadron based in Europe also!! :acme: I've read about those Greens in Europe and the UK :jester:

First thing I noticed was the electric fan on the front of the radiator.

Looks really good. I don't usually care for the green found on Mopars unless it's the turquoise that was used on the '64s but you have a beautiful color.

I can guarantee you that it doesn't. :basketcase: Why do you say that? We like to say sure- grip . Only grandmas had positraction. :D No I mean the "I guarantee it doesn't" part.

Why do you say that?

I got a Carter P74029 for mine. Someone on this site was using one. It's inexpensive and it puts out about 5-7 psi which does not require a regulator. I didn't want to use a regulator because I don't like the way they look on a vintage car. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/crt-p74029/overview/

The reason I am set up to use only at start was to keep from pumping fuel into the crankcase if the mechanical pump's membrane would rupture. This was mentioned either here or on Moparts a while back. My car runs fine with the mechanical pump. I only needed the electric pump to start the...

I should have added that the electric pump is in line with the mechanical fuel pump. I only run it to start the engine and then I shut it off. I didn't want to change the look of the engine even though it is not close to stock looking with those monstrous Indy heads. Jack

I finally have a solution to my hard starting Mopar. If my car sits for a couple of days it takes a lot of cranking of the starter and pumping the throttle to get it started. This was true of the 383 as well as the hemi. I am sure it was a fuel issue. I think the gas evaporates from the fuel...