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I'm in northern Ill (about half way between Chicago and Rockford). Last week it got up to the mid to upper 90's.
The guy who did the headliner for me said he never uses any insulation, but I brought it because it had insulation from the factory and I had to remove some in order to tape up the...
My original rear bumper had a bluish tinge above each of the exhaust tips. I'm sure it was 47 years worth of neglect (at the time). Nothing seemed to clean it off until I tried Never-Dull.
I finally got around to looking into this hood wrap. One guy quoted me $250, but he does this on the side in his garage and that quote was sight unseen. Took the car to another professional guy and he basically talked me out of it. He said he could not do the cowl vents. Said that they would...
They don't call 'em "Don'tLast" for nothing. The only thing I would by from AutoZone is "dumb" parts, like oils, coolants, wiper blades, bulbs, etc, etc.. There is a reason they warranty their parts for life.
I had a similar problem when I first bought my bird. I added a shroud (22" radiator) and replaced the 190° with a 180° stat and problem solved. Since you already have a shroud, I'd bet going to a 180° stat will do it for you.
I had kill switches on all my cars back in the day when I lived IN Chicago. Just used a regular old hardware store toggle switch that grounded the coil and hid it anywhere that was convenient (under the dash, in the door jam, in the trunk).
Russ has a good point, but hot oil flows better than cold oil. That said, I generally change it before starting it after winter storage. Besides, if you're like me, you probably have less that 1000 miles on the oil anyway, so my take is you can't go wrong either way.
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