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Oil pressure builds almost immediately, whether cranking or starting (at least mine does). The flat tappet lifter has the same pressure on the cam lobe no matter what starting procedure you use. So what's the difference whether you build oil pressure during cranking or upon starting (assuming...
When the Road Runner script on my deck lid was loose as well as the Pentastar emblem on the RF fender, I used the 3M foam backed tape. Worked like a charm AND sealed the holes.
Correct. Mine didn't have it when I bought it. I just used an awl to punch a starter hole as I worked it from one end to the other. Then just press the retainer in to the hole.
I'm running the same carb, but with a Performer "RPM" manifold (if that makes any difference). If no one comes up with a solution I cam post a picture if that would help.
Thinking about the fun you'll have driving it should provide the necessary motivation.
You just have to overcome the retiree's motto, of "Never do today what you can postpone until tomorrow".
If the float bowls have dried out after sitting a long time, I give each bowl vent a good squirt of gas from a plastic bottle, the kind you might use for olive oil. Before you start it, hold the choke plate wide open and look down the bore as you pump the throttle once or twice. If you see fuel...
I bought a repo switch. The resistor spring in mine was rusted to pieces. I tried a repair, but was unsuccessful, so I bit the bullet and just bought a new one.
P.S.
Sorry for the late reply. My daughter was moving to DEN and I drove a car out for them. Just got back today.
I just replaced that thumb wheel IP dimmer switch last summer (or was it the summer before?). I seem to recall just 2 screws from the backside and it fell right out. Maybe I just got lucky.
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