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If I'm seeing 99 99 paint code that would be a custom color! Post car with air grabber. I'm out of time right now.

Your pants are darker in the before pic LOL Nice

You would have to disconnect the exhaust to tip the engine far enough to clear the the cross member. Take the shifter off.

Alpine white PPG 2033 for 69 Code W1 on the fender tag although the tag might show a different color depending on how it was ordered.

I like the 70s paint schemes but not that one.

The fuel evaporates much faster from the Carter Eddy style carbs. You could put a rotary style electric pump in to fill the carb then shut it off the mechanical pump will pull fuel threw it. Or prime the carb as said above.

Hi

Do you have a fender tag? It would give you the color of the upper and lower door panel, could be any exterior color. It is going to be an exterior color in gloss and if white is what you want in 69 it was Alpine White PPG 2033 and W1 on the fender tag. You can have rattle cans filled at any...

Looks like a 1 of 1 LOL

No record of colors

Evans is the other maker but I prefer M&H

Did they give you a kiss and cuddle with you after they were done :monkeyleft: Local shop. Degrease, mag, resurface seats and valves, new guides, mill $256. plus the cost of the guides and freeze plugs. Even if they replaced the valves it's to much.

:thumbsup2:

Something to remember about the lower control arm bushings. When changing them out if you use the original rubber style which I prefer leave the pivot nut loose until the ride height is established. Car completely assembled torsion bars adjusted (I let my alignment guy do that to factory specs)...

My guess is lower control arm bushings since you added weight to the front?

See if these fit https://www.yearone.com/Catalog/chrysler.b.body/air-.-fuel/air-filters-.-paper/round

Not sure how smart I am LOL

VIN shows to be a Road runner 440 Hi Performance 1970 Lynch Rd plant. Like V.R.D. said the stamping should be found under the trunk gasket drivers side.

I'm in a dry climate no rust to worry about on bare metal. So I go bare metal work the metal and fill, sand the filler with 180. When I think I got it straight I shoot 4x filler primmer guide coat and block with 220, it that looks good I fill prime again to get rid of sand scratches guide coat...

Stamped at the vendors plant. Also not to nitpick LOL, but the bolt holding the horn is wrong. Should be 5/16-18 hex head sems bolt with paint cutter teeth under the parameter of the washer in a phosphate (brownish green) finish grade 5. Washer looks to be on the small side also.