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Yeah, that’s what I thought as well. Now go look at the common on-the-shelf pistons available for the 383 today. Yep! None of them come close to the measured 1.932 Compression Distance, at least that I’ve seen. This is why when I build my 383, I’ll be springing for some semi-custom Diamond or...

Sure I can help. The guy with the 383 info is moparts.com user: JohnRR I don't have the links on hand at the moment but I saved some of his comments on the topic as follows: "It's a warmed up number, the real factory compression ratio was 9.2 at best. To clear up a few things, that have...

True, but the advertised horsepower and and compression ratio ratings are not exactly the same thing. Remember, the base 383 Road Runner was marketed primary to the younger folks on a budget during the golden era of drag racing. Folks wanted to know they had a solid foundation for day-two race...

You'd have to ask old Chrysler that. I'd assume the reason was because it was the height the horsepower wars so fudging the numbers was advantageous for sales.

I was considering a similar idea with mothballing my numbers matching 383 and building an alternate 383 for my road runner. Ultimately I decided against it. If I don't put the numbers matching engine back in now, if the engine isn't bolted to the car, there is a chance it might not ever happen...

This topic has been discused at length over at moparts. The factory compression rating was wildly optimistic. A 68-69 383HP was in reality around 9.2:1. A non-HP down in the 8s. This is one reason that if one isn't attentive to this and stabs in a popular oversized cam; the performance becomes...

1968 B-Body Coup/Hard Top driver side door in good usable shape. Has wing window but no lock/latch mechanism, window regulator, or door glass. $200 Located: Lewiston Idaho 83501

1968 B-Body Coupe/Hard Top passenger side door is in good usable shape. Has wing window, door glass, window regulator but is missing door striker. $300 Located: Lewiston Idaho 83501

Great! Thank you!

I've been wondering what's a good source for correct VIN rivets?

Oh cool! Back on topic. The rims will be painted F5 green and topped off with "Plymouth Division" dog dishes, which I have on hand as well.

Oh! And the other observation I made when I had my 68 Charger, I ran the tried and true 275/60R15 meats on it with 3.23 Sure Grip. Well, when I went to get the body work done I put the 14x6 70s Rally Wheels back on that cam on the car when I bought it. I was amazed at how ditching the big rubber...

The Cragars pictured are my Father's. They are currently on his 62 Dart and look great. I like Cragars too and used to have a set on my 68 Charger. However, site member, pinkpanthr, literally gave me a set of the pictured factory correct Motor City 14x5.5 Steelies for nothing more than shipping...

I'm happy my date codes came out well even though they are not exactly the right ones for my car. Nonetheless, I will hopefully get them in primer tonight. Fingers crossed.

Wanted: 68-69 B-Body - Buddy Seat Brackets. Good. Usable. Send PM please.

It's called RustProof M/D by Martin Senour Paints, Link: http://www.martinsenour-autopaint.com/documents/pds/RustProof-MD-PDS-11-16.pdf I thought epoxy primer too. I even have some SPi epoxy primer which is said to be really good stuff. But my autobody guy highly recommended RustProof M/D. Said...

Got the Rust Proof M/D down,

She's back safe and sound! And after about 5 hours of clean up it looked like this -> Roof turned out good! Wasn't entirely expecting this, but hey nothing time and money can't solve-> In the morning, we're spraying everything throughout with Rust Proof M/D. I'm told it's awesome stuff...

There she is. After 15-years the bird is out of my possession as it is away for an overnight stay at the media blasters. So I'm naturally a little anxious over it. It's not the better part of town, but not much left on the car for the taking either. Anyway, they're not blasting the whole car...

Now there's a thought. I just looked around the website. When I get closer I'll give them a call. Did you strip or blast the old paint on those dashes? Mine has some slight surface rust in a few areas.