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Well,
Further investigation........if I'm correct, the ENGINE # listed above is NOT the VIN# but the DATE code number. This number is taken off of the lower LH of the motor under the starter opening.
I will be looking for the VIN# stamping tomorrow. If I'm correct, it should be on the lower...
ENGINE ID# 17782 A
with casting # 3614230-4
Can anyone ID these numbers for me. Let me know if it is in fact a 383CI and what it came off of.
Pictures attached.............
Thank you in advance.............
LG,
Mike
:yesnod:
Thanks again BIG JOHN...............
FYI- Right after I posted the request. I checked the internet and came across the following info for MSD units.
"spark plug gap for compression up to 10.5:1, should be .050 to .060; 10.5 to 13, should be .040 to .050; and compression motors above 13:1...
Hi,
I know the stock gap calls for a setting of .035"........................
I'm installing new platinum spark plugs, Autolite AP85. I have a 1969 RR 383 CI MOPAR with an MSD unit.
¿ What should the spark plug gap be set at ??
Thanks a bunch,
LG,
Mike:acne:
DONE DEAL.................
Thanks to all for the great advise. I made a table to suspend the transmission. The H/F slide hammer worked great after some adaptations to it. The flat seal puller I had worked great in removing the seal. Hammering the new one in was a challenge but got done OK...
PK4028412 5678 5159
The above number is on the SIDE just above the oil pan on the DRIVER's side. It is suppose to be the ID number for the transmission.
I do NOT have any reference books that deal with MOPAR.
Would be nice to know what it came off of.....................
Any...
Once again, you guys don't let me down. THANK YOU for the quick response.................
I just saw an oil pump like the one I have on EBAY and the vendor identifies it as being an A727 from 1971 to 1977. No wonder the front seal I purchased for a 1969 RR did not match mine. The one I have...
Does the transmission have to be in a vertical position to remove the oil pump housing. I need to replace the cover O ring and the input shaft seal.
Also, what if anything should the O ring be coated with.
Any suggestions highly appreciated.
Thank you in advance,
LG,
Mike
Hi Mike............my name is also MIKE. Unlike you, I purchased my FIRST ever MOPAR and it happens to be my FAVORITE sedan of all time. The 1969 RR COUPE.............
Your description of where you live is pretty accurate. I live 8 miles from you in Ventura ( San Buena Ventura) for you...
WOW...............ACME A12
I guess it is obvious this is MY FIRST "MOPAR" ever..............that's really something since I have been driving since I turned 16 and just turned 69. Not to mention all the classic cars I have had through the years............
I just finished building MY FIRST...
YES..........I just turned 69 and the days of SHIFTING are far behind me. NOT to mention my wife does NOT drive a standard car. FIRST thing I did is to replace the 4 speed with a 727 "Street fighter" automatic and also replaced the 3.90 gears with a 2.76 gears to make my FREEWAY CRUISER. I...
FENDER TAG for 1969 RR
Hi ACME A12
You were 100% correct on the SPD. I did NOT know they used letters ONLY for the last 3 months of the year.
Thanks a bunch,
LG,
Mike
Hi ACME A12............
Thanks for the quick response. This internet is GREAT, you are clear on the other side in Florida and I'm in Southern California.
You just confirmed what I found out about the "99" being SPECIAL ORDER.........the TAG starts off with "Y39" END which signifies SPECIAL...
Hi,
1969 Plymouth Roadrunner Coupe
Can anyone tell me what the CENTER sequence line of the FENDER TAG means.
I'm STUCK on the first half of the following sequence. I have the rest of it figured out.
99 99 H2X X9 C10 926118
Thanks a bunch,
Mike
ISSUE RESOLVED...................FINAL COST is 20 hours total. That is a LONG ways from the asking 43.5 hours.
An honest figure would have been more like 15 hours and at most not one minute over 18 hours. I was on the generous side and told the "BAR" investigator that I could LIVE with a 20...
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